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We’d been avoiding Rome for the longest time, hesitant to visit. much less create our own personal Rome travel guide. Too crowded. Too touristy. Too expensive. However, when our cruise ended in Rome, we decided to give it a chance and added an extra four days to our itinerary. We didn’t regret it for a minute.
Yes, Rome can be crowded – like any big city – and it can have a distinct “touristy” flavor. As for expenses, it’s on par with any major cosmopolitan city on the world. But this comes with a big IF! IF you travel during high season, insist on visiting all the iconic locations, monuments, and fountains, and choose the wrong time of day to do so. In that case, Rome can be a nightmare.
Table of Content
Use these quick links to access specific topics of interest:
- 4 Days in Rome in Early November
- The 2025 Jubilee Preparations Created a Lot of Challenges
- Rome’s Beauty Is in the Details
- Mobility Challenges – Plan Your Rome Trip Accordingly
- What to See in Rome
- Where to Stay in Rome
- Dining, Shopping and All that Jazz
- Where to Eat in Rome and Places to Avoid
- Pastries and Coffee Shops
- Our Favorite Restaurants – A Rome Travel Guide for Foodies
- About Tipping in Italy
- Navigating Rome – The City of Seven Peaks
- The Challenging Streets of Rome
- Some Final Thoughts on Rome : Our Culinary Journey Through the Eternal City
4 Days in Rome in Early November
We visited the capital of Italy during the first week of November, just as the “official” tourist season was winding down. Our cruise ship was one of the last to visit Rome before winter. The extreme heat that much of Europe had endured throughout the summer and fall had finally subsided. And daylight hours grew shorter with each passing day.
In some ways, our timing was perfect: comfortably temperate autumn days, beautiful sunshine, and plenty to see and do. Yet in other ways, it was challenging—mostly due to preparations for the Vatican’s Jubilee year. Late fall is a great time to visit Italy as we discovered last year during our trip to Tuscany and our visit to Venice.
The 2025 Jubilee Preparations Created a Lot of Challenges
Not the ideal conditions for creating our Rome Travel Guide. In fact, this is far from the Ultimate Rome Travel Guide. Think of it as a good first draft. Structures under repair, scaffolding was everywhere, and monuments were being scrubbed clean to look their finest for the 35 million pilgrims expected to head to the Holy City in 2025.
Even the Trevi Fountain has been drained of its 300,000 liters of water for cleaning and restoration—the first time in a decade. And of course, there was roadwork everywhere. More than once, Google Maps sent us on a route closed for construction.
Rome’s Beauty Is in the Details
When in Rome, it feels like everywhere you turn, there is something exquisitely beautiful to behold—architecture, magnificent sculptures, lavishly detailed fountains, ancient monuments and charming people. Pay attention to the details of what you see, so, you can truly appreciate the incredible talent and craftsmanship that went into creating all this beauty.
Mobility Challenges – Plan Your Rome Trip Accordingly
As you wander through Rome, you’ll encounter steep inclines and uneven surfaces that can be taxing on the legs and feet. The cobblestones, while charming, can be unforgiving, especially for those with mobility issues or anyone not accustomed to such terrain. It’s crucial to plan your routes wisely and take breaks as needed.
Also, be prepared for the hustle and bustle of daily life in the city. Crossing the street at an intersection or crosswalk can be something of an adventure as they are often treated as optional by local drivers.
The streets are often crowded with locals and tourists alike, making it essential to stay alert. Embrace the challenge, and you’ll find that each step unveils a new layer of history and beauty in this magnificent city.
What to See in Rome
We only had 4 short days – actually closer to 3 1/2. But we were able to hit the highlights in between our numerous and delicious meals. This was very much a Foodie journey more than a simple sightseeing trip.
As such, we did not indulge in any organized tours of Rome, preferring to go totally self-guided, with the aid of the internet and a couple of helpful guidebooks from Lonely Planet. Going solo gives me the freedom to explore things that catch my eye.
If you are a passionate amateur photographer like, creating a shot list will help focus on getting those iconic shot, plus a few unexpected gems. Mine was extensive, but I was unable to capture it all for lack of time. If you’re curious, you can download my Rome Shot List here.
Travel Happy Tip – Traveling with an iPhone
When traveling, you know that virtually anything can happen. The least fun thing was an error message on my brand-new iPhone 16 ProMax, purchased specifically for this trip.
The message read “Device Full, delete applications and large files” or something to that effect. This is because data roaming issues are preventing your phone from syncing with iCloud fast enough. Also, set your iPhone storage to Optimize Photos.
Fortunately, I had my Canon T6i DSLR and a good set of lenses with me so it was not a total disaster. However, the 18-55 mm zoom did not provide as wide a shot as the 0.5 lens on my iPhone, so shooting large monuments became more of challenge. Plan ahead and be prepared.
Hop-on-Hop-off Bus Tours?
Because of the terrain, walking isn’t always the best option if you have mobility challenges. In such cases, a tour bus can be an excellent option for getting around. There are several tour bus operators from which to choose, and most begin at Termini Station.
We opted for Big Red Bus Tours but realized that the itinerary was not ideal. The number of stops and locations too few and far apart. However, we were able to view the major sites from the comfort of our rooftop seats and see the best of Rome in a short amount of time.
Here are a few of our favorite places and top attractions to visit while in Rome:
A Visit to the Colosseum or Flavian Amphitheater
Rather than take public transportation, I decided to take an early-morning walk to the Colosseum which is actually named the Flavian Amphitheater.
This choice allowed me to discover the rich diversity of Roman neighborhoods along the way, with their charming boutiques, cafés, restaurants, and bars.
My first glimpse of this iconic Roman structure came as I turned down Via degli Annibaldi. The massive amphitheater loomed ahead in the distance at the end of the street, simply taking my breath away. As I drew closer, the feeling of awe only intensified.
I paused on Ponte degli Annibaldi, a small footbridge that offers visitors the perfect selfie spot and a unique vantage point of the Colosseum. It is also a great spot for people watching as would-be influencers jostled for a prime position and perfect shot.
While renovations were underway around this spectacular edifice, the Colosseum itself – a well-preserved vestige of Ancient Rome – was surprisingly free of scaffolding, allowing for breathtaking shots from various angles.
Various images of the Roman Colosseum
The Trevi Fountain
Minutes away from our apartment, the Trevi Fountain tops the list of must-see attractions. Work crews were busy setting up a metal structure that would serve as a bridge during renovations, allowing visitors to get up close to the many ornate sculptures adorning the fountain’s face.
There’s a tradition of throwing a coin over one’s shoulder into the fountain for good luck. Reportedly, the fountain collects an impressive €3,000 daily, or €1.6 million annually.
Because of this, the city installed a small trough of water. This helps maintain this significant revenue stream of donations to local charities during renovations. Visitors can still toss coins (though many miss) to ensure good fortune and guarantee a return to the Eternal City.
The exquisite details of the statues and structure are even more apparent without water, drawing attention to these intricate features. Equally fascinating is observing visitors around the fountain – taking photos and selfies, sharing the moment on FaceTime with friends, and occasionally even proposing marriage.
The Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna
A short walk along Via Sistina from the apartment leads to the Spanish Steps, which connect Piazza Trinità dei Monti at the top with Piazza di Spagna at the bottom. The steps feature a Baroque-style design with a mix of curves, straight flights, vistas, and terraces.
An early-morning stroll allowed me to visit the steps with minimal tourist traffic. A few early risers were exploring the structure in the soft glow of morning light.
From atop the staircase, you can enjoy a lovely view of Rome, including the domes of Chiesa di San Girolamo dei Croati and Saint Peter’s Basilica, which stands 4.6 km away in the distance. At the base of the 135 steps, in the center of Piazza di Spagna, you’ll find one of Rome’s 2,000 fountains: the Fontana della Barcaccia. This elegant 17th-century Baroque-style fountain is shaped like a half-sunken ship. It was built to commemorate the flood of the Tiber River that occurred in 1598.
The Vatican and Saint Peters Basilica
We exited the tour bus at the foot of Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II, a proud structure that crosses the Tiber at a point closest to Vatican City, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The bridge itself is decorated with a series of bronze angelic statues. Their green patina contrasted beautifully with the bright blue sky.
Walking along via della Concilliazione, a broad pedestrian thoroughfare that leads to St Peter’s we were struck by the majesty of the Basilica in the distance. Administrative buildings on either side were adorned with colorful billboards promoting the upcoming Jubilee.
A over a thousand visitors were lined up outside, waiting to enter the Basilica, the Vatican museum and the Sistine Chapel. Skip the line tickets are a must unless you have the patience of Solomon.
But skipping the line to enter is one thing. Dealing with the crowds inside is quite another. We aren’t big on crowds and after our experience at the Uffizi in Florence, we decided that the view from outside was enough.
Castel Sant’Angelo
Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II is a great vantage point from which to photograph Castel Sant’Angelo. Normally the best views are from the Sant’Angelo Bridge, which was closed for construction during our visit. But the side view ads interesting detail of the bridge’s arches reflecting in the Tiber and forming almost perfect circles.
This massive structure was originally built back in 123-139 AD and served as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family. Over the centuries it served as a middle-age fortress, a papal residence, a prison and now a museum. Though I didn’t visit inside, the massive structure made a few interesting shots.
Villa Borghese
Near our apartment, at the crest of the hill atop Via Vittorio Veneto, just beyond Porta Pinciana is a huge urban park known as Villa Borghese. This beautiful urban park is said to be the third largest in Rome. It must be a perfect location for an afternoon picnic when the weather is warm.
One of its key features is a small lake that features rowboat rental. It is there where you’ll find the iconic Temple of Aesculapius which is often photographed reflecting in the tranquil water of the tiny lake.
Regardless of the time of year, it is well worth the visit with its manicured lawns and stately pines. It is one of the ideal places for an early-morning run along the wide pedestrian pathways.
Attractions We Missed on Our Visit to Rome
Four days aren’t really enough. It seems like a week would be more appropriate. We missed the following must-see attractions:
- The Pantheon
- Palatine Hill
- Piazza Navona
- Piazza del Popolo with its Egyptian obelisk
- The Vatican Museum
- The Sixtine Chapel
- Temple of Aesculapius in villa Borghese
For more details on these and other Rome attractions, visit the official Rome Tourism website.
Where to Stay in Rome
I highly recommend that you get as close to everything as you can! Our Airbnb apartment in the Piazza di Spagna neighborhood was within an easy walking distance (at least for me) from the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and just minutes away from the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain.
If you prefer more traditional lodging, this area is home to many boutique hotels. The metro was close by, there were taxis in abundance (except when you’re looking for one…lol), but I’m told that the bus system leaves something to be desired. We didn’t test that theory.
Dining, Shopping and All that Jazz
Because our location was so central, there was a lot to see and do. Here are just a few of the highlights found in the neighborhood. Of course, there was an infinite amount of more to see and do. But this will give you a general sense of the surroundings.
The Piazza di Spagna district in Rome’s Centro is the perfect location for a fabulous getaway to the Eternal City. A great selection of restaurants and attractions awaits. Many of the popular attractions are located within walking distance.
High-End Shops in the Shopping District
Via dei Condotti where you will find high-end brands such as Dolce & Gabanna, Rolex, Fendi, Rinascente. The street is quite flat, and the pavement is easily manageable for someone with mobility issues, so shopping is easy. The area is clean, safe and well-lit as you would expect in a high-priced area. In general, moving
Gregory’s Jazz Club
If you’re a jazz enthusiast, the neighborhood we stayed in is a great choice. Gregory’s Jazz Club and Whiskey Bar, located on Via Gregoriana (hence its name), is a cozy two-story venue perfect for experiencing local musicians.
This intimate setting offers everything from jazz classics to spontaneous improvisation. The excellent house band performs main sets until 10:30 PM, followed by a smooth and soulful jam session where local artists take turns performing on the postage-stamp sized stage.
The downstairs bar features a huge selection of single malt whiskeys for every palate, from my favorite, Macallan to signature cocktails and more.
A Classic Italian Barber Shop
By the time we reached Rome, my beard was in need of a trim. I got a recommendation for a barber shop from our host, who also sports a well-kept and nicely styled beard: Modàfferi Barber Shop. Modàferri is apparently a barber shop to the stars with images of famous actors on display.
The barber shop is run by two brothers, Ivano and Manuel Modafferi and was founded back in 1970 by the current owners’ father Gianni. This is a traditional barbershop with a twist. In addition to offering the traditional straight razor shave and scissors trim, they provide a range of skin and hair care services along with their own line of grooming products.
I marveled at Manuel’s dexterity and skill as he trimmed my beard with his silver scissors, leaving not a hair out of place. Next was the hair, including a deep scalp massage. Finally, there was the facial treatment, carefully exfoliating my skin and cleansing my pores. He then applied a mud-green facial mask accompanied by a lovely glass of Prosecco. A truly amazing experience.
Where to Eat in Rome and Places to Avoid
It’s hard to find a truly bad meal in Italy. But your chance increase in areas close to the main tourist attractions. Spotting a tourist trap is quite easy though. Beware of a restaurant exhibiting the following behavior:
- There are greeters outside that try to entice you.
- There are giant menus outside with photos of food – emphasizing pizza
- Menus are translated into many languages, none of them in Italian
- Nobody on staff appears to be Italian or speaks the language.
As for online reviews, they are often unreliable. Review sites (think Yelp and TripAdvisor to name a few) tend to skew towards pizza spots rather than traditional and authentic cuisine. And they are notoriously prone to fake reviews.
If you’re celiac, or gluten intolerant, try the Find Me GF application as well as the Italian Celia Association’s website for recommendations on where to eat safely.
Your Airbnb host or hotel concierge is often the best source for solid recommendations. So don’t hesitate to reach out and ask. They may have a financial incentive to make certain recommendations but will rarely steer you wrong.
Here are a few of the noteworthy restaurants we discovered during our stay.
Pastries and Coffee Shops
There are delectable pastry shops literally everywhere, and it’s hard to find a bad one. Most serve a delicious selection of pastries including Cornetto or Brioche (croissants) as well as a roman favorite, the Maritozzo Romano.
A Maritozzo consists of a large, sweet bun (flour, eggs, honey, butter and salt), which is cut in half and filled with a huge amount of whipped cream (panna montata), sometimes served plain, sometimes topped with Nutella or Pistachio cream. Oh, so many calories. But while in Rome…
Trecaffé
Our favorite pastry shop during our stay was Trecaffè on Via dei Due Macelli near the corner of Via Francesco Crispi. The service is friendly. Their Maritozzi are amazing. The caffè is also excellent. So is their fresh squeezed orange juice. There are several locations found throughout Rome. Yet it doesn’t feel like a chain. Friendly services, with an Italian flair. Order at the counter for take-out, or from the friendly wait staff to eat in.
La Fenice Ristorante
The best caffè I had was not 20 meters from our apartment. La Fenice Ristorante, a small wine bar Caffè with a few outside tables on Francesco Crispi. A caffè dopio (double expresso) costs €3. But its intense flavor and wonderful crema was worth every penny. Consume it seated, or standing at the counter. Note that the price is usually different when seated. Sometimes as much as double.
Illy Store Roma
There is an intense and existential battle between Italy’s two main coffee brands: Illy and Lavazza.
Though I do enjoy both, I have a slight preference for Illy. This preference was reinforced by visiting the Illy Shop on Via dei Due Maccelai.
Picture a store similar to a Nespresso boutique, but with a distinct Italian flair. Much cooler, better design, wonderful experience.
I had my usual caffè doppio which was served in an Illy branded ceramic espresso cup, accompanied by a small paper cup of sparkling water. It was out of this world.
And I love their slogan Live HappILLY!
Our Favorite Restaurants – A Rome Travel Guide for Foodies
There are thousands of restaurants to choose from in Rome, from pizza shops and casual eateries to Michelin Star restaurants. The following were discovered with the help of Fabrizzio, our awesome Airbnb host. We only wished we had more time.
Pizza – Pinsitaly Trevi
Pinsitaly is a small and bustling pizzeria, and for good reason. Located near the busy Trevi Fountain, it is one of the most highly rated pizzerias in Rome. Instead of the typical round pizza, they serve oblong-shaped pinsa.
Pinsa is a type of pizza that originated near Rome. The name comes from the word “pinsere,” meaning “to press,” which refers to how the dough is shaped. This dough is a unique blend of wheat, rice, and soy flour, resulting in a lower gluten content than regular pizza dough—perfect for gluten-sensitive people like me. The dough undergoes a long fermentation process of up to 120 hours, enhancing its flavor and making the crispy crust more digestible.
Danielle had the Capricciosa, which means “whimsical” in Italian. It came with a generous helping of tomato sauce, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, prosciutto cotto, mushrooms, and black olives. I opted for the Puttanesca, topped with tomato sauce, black olives, capers, garlic, anchovies. These Pinsa do not include cheese, making it an ideal choice for those who are lactose intolerant.
Da Settimio all’arancio
Located just a short walk from the Spanish Steps, Settimio all’Arancio is so good that we ate these twice. The service was exceptional, as was the food. Fresh fish and seafood are a must-try when you visit, and they also serve an impressive Fiorentina steak, offering various cuts, aging options, and provenance.
The menu is divided into two sections: Piatti di Mare (fish) and Piatti di Terra (meat), each featuring a wide selection of appetizing dishes. On our first visit, we started with fritto misto (mixed fried seafood) and Carciofi alla Giudia, a classic of Roman Jewish cuisine made with deep-fried artichokes. The artichokes open up like flowers, providing a spectacular presentation and fantastic flavor.
This was followed by a plate of delicious pasta and a wonderfully prepared striped bass, perfect for sharing. For dessert, we enjoyed a good selection of fresh fruit in addition to the classic tiramisu.
On our second visit, we went of the Fiorentina steak, a 58-day aged porterhouse cut of meat, grilled to perfection and served at our table on a hot stone slab. The two-inch piece of meat weighed nearly a kilo and a half (about 2.6 pounds). Settimio all’Arancio truly offers an exceptional dining experience with its delightful dishes and welcoming atmosphere.
Hostaria Da Pietro
A cozy family restaurant located down a side street near piazza di spade. Hostaria Da Pietro consists of a series of small rooms fitted with small wooden tables and paper tablecloths, Da Pietro is reputed to have the best Carbonara in Rome. It was truly delicious, rich and loaded with crispy slices of Guanciale. Divine.
Note that in Rome and most of Italy, a Carbonara is made with Guanciale, or salt-cured pork jowls, rather than Pancetta, which is more common in North America. Also, it’s not made with cream but rather a simply delicious mixture of eye yolk and parmigiana cheese. If this wasn’t the best in Rome, it was certainly the best I’ve had.
I also enjoyed a generous plate of beautifully presented grilled calamari while Danielle opted for here regular favorite of scampi presented with their claws for spectacular effect. We accompanied the meal with a beautiful bottle of Lis Neris Sauvignon.
La Locanda di Bacco
This place left us quite disappointed, despite its positive online rating. The service was terrible, and the food was subpar. We had tickets to the opera but missed the show because it took over an hour to get the check despite asking several times. The waiter insisted we order the porcini mushroom pasta and filetto ai ferri (grilled beef filet), but what we received was not a filet; it was tough hanger steak that was past its prime. We left the restaurant feeling nauseous.
About Tipping in Italy
In theory, the price for a meal includes service. Locals usually leave the small change as a form of tip. But the increasing influence of American tourists has created an expectation of a 15% gratuity or more. Some wait staff are bold enough to ask for a tip when they hand you the terminal. They actually ask you how much to add to the check.
Navigating Rome – The City of Seven Peaks
For some reason, the nickname “City of Seven Hills” hadn’t registered as a mobility red flag. We were expecting gently sloping hills with easy inclines, but we were wrong! Indeed, the city’s elevations vary dramatically, with steep inclines almost everywhere. And by the way, there are more than seven hills, so consider yourself warned.
The city’s topography adds significant challenges for anyone with mobility issues or those who are out of shape. We found our four days in Rome to be an almost continuous cardio workout.
The Challenging Streets of Rome
Centuries-old cobblestones pave almost all the streets in Rome’s Centro Storico (historic center). Combined with the city’s varied topography, navigating these streets can be quite a challenge. Six months after her ankle replacement surgery, my wife, Danielle, still needed her cane to get around without issues. You might feel tempted to wear something stylish, but you must choose sturdy and comfortable walking shoes to explore the city.
Some Final Thoughts on Rome: Our Culinary Journey Through the Eternal City
As our whirlwind four-day adventure in Rome came to an end, we found ourselves enchanted by the Eternal City’s timeless allure. Despite our initial reservations about crowds and costs, Rome revealed itself as a captivating blend of history, culture, and culinary delights.
From the awe-inspiring Colosseum to the intricate details of the Trevi Fountain, each sight offered a unique perspective on Rome’s rich heritage. The city’s vibrant neighborhoods, bustling cafés, and hidden gems like Gregory’s Jazz Club added depth to our experience beyond the typical tourist attractions.
Our culinary journey through Rome was nothing short of spectacular. From the crispy, light pinsa at Pinsitaly Trevi to the exquisite seafood and aged Fiorentina steak at Settimio all’Arancio, each meal was a celebration of Italian gastronomy. Even simple pleasures like a perfectly crafted espresso or a cream-filled Maritozzo became unforgettable moments.
While we encountered some challenges, such as the ongoing Jubilee preparations and the occasional tourist trap, these minor setbacks only added character to our Roman holiday. The city’s ability to blend ancient wonders with modern life, all while preparing for a significant religious event, showcased its resilience and ever-evolving nature.
As we bid farewell to Rome, we realized that four days had merely scratched the surface of what this magnificent city has to offer. The Eternal City had worked its magic on us, leaving us with a trove of memories and a strong desire to return. After all, we had tossed our coins into the Trevi Fountain’s temporary trough – ensuring, as legend has it, that we would one day find ourselves back in Rome, ready to uncover more of its endless treasures.
We hope this Rome Travel Guide will be helpful when planning your next trip to the Eternal City.