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Yes—especially if you want time to settle into Siena’s rhythm rather than simply check off its landmarks.
We spent seven days in Siena, staying in an apartment just steps from Piazza del Campo. That gave us time to explore the medieval centre without rushing, return to places we enjoyed, shop for local food, discover favourite restaurants, and experience the streets after many day-trippers had left. Siena became our favourite destination in Italy—not because it has seven full days of conventional sightseeing, but because staying longer allowed the city to become part of our daily rhythm.
We still used Siena as a base for two excursions: one to San Gimignano and a nearby winery, and another through the Val d’Orcia to San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino. But we deliberately limited our time away because we were enjoying Siena itself so much.
A longer stay does require some planning. Siena’s historic centre is built across several hills, with steep side streets and uneven cobblestones. Danielle walks with a cane, so where we stayed and the routes we chose made a considerable difference. Siena isn’t an easy destination for someone with reduced mobility, but choosing accommodations near the city’s central ridge can make it considerably more manageable.
This guide shares what we learned from spending a full week in Siena: the main sites to see in Siena, the places a day-tripper is likely to miss, how Siena works as a base for Tuscany, and what travellers with mobility concerns should consider before arriving.
Table of contents
- Seven Days in Siena at a Glance
- Why Siena Rewards a Longer Stay
- How Many Days Do You Need in Siena? 1 Day vs. 3 Days vs. 7 Days
- Is Seven Days in Siena Right for You?
- Our Seven-Day Siena Itinerary
- Day 1 – Arriving in Siena, Italy: First Impressions
- Day 2 – Settling into Siena: Piazza del Campo and Everyday Life
- Day 3 – Siena Cathedral and the Duomo Complex
- Day 4 – San Gimignano and a Tuscan Wine Experience
- Day 5 – Porta del Cielo: Siena Cathedral from Above
- Day 6 – Siena from Above and Below
- Day 7 – Val d’Orcia: San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino
- Departure Morning – Leaving Siena for Florence
- Is Siena Worth Staying in for a Week? Our Verdict
- Frequently Asked Questions about Siena, Italy
- Map of Siena Old Quarter
Seven Days in Siena at a Glance
Length of stay: Seven days in late September, staying just a few steps from Piazza del Campo.
Overall feel: Historic, atmospheric and surprisingly easy to settle into once you stop treating Siena as a checklist of landmarks.
Travel style: Slow, independent exploration with plenty of time to walk, return to favourite places and experience the city at different times of day.
Getting around: We explored Siena mainly on foot, used train and bus connections for San Gimignano, and used our leased car for the Val d’Orcia day trip.
Day trips: San Gimignano, Tenuta Torciano, San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino.
Walking and mobility: Siena is challenging because of steep streets, cobblestones and uneven surfaces. Danielle walks with a cane, and where we stayed made a significant difference.
Most important mobility lesson: Staying near Siena’s central ridge reduced some—but not all—of the difficult climbing.
Best suited to: Slow travellers, couples, food and wine travellers, history lovers and visitors who want to use Siena selectively as a base for exploring Tuscany.
Less suited to: Travellers trying to cover several major Italian cities quickly or those who require consistently level, barrier-free routes.
Our experience: Siena became our favourite destination in Italy. We deliberately limited our excursions because we were enjoying the city itself so much.
Why Siena Rewards a Longer Stay
Two or three days may be enough to visit the principal sites to see in Siena, including Piazza del Campo, the Duomo complex, Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia. A full week, however, creates a different kind of experience.
We didn’t have to fit all of them into a single hurried itinerary. We could return to the cathedral for the Porta del Cielo tour, explore one major attraction at a time, stop at local shops, enjoy longer meals and leave space for discoveries that weren’t on a sightseeing list.
Staying in an apartment also changed our relationship with the city. Shopping at the Consorzio Agrario, finding a favourite pastry shop, returning to Pier Pettinaio for our final dinner and learning which streets made walking easier became part of the experience. These aren’t necessarily reasons to cross the Atlantic, but they are what turned Siena from somewhere we visited into somewhere we briefly felt we belonged.
That is what most day-trip accounts miss.
How Many Days Do You Need in Siena? 1 Day vs. 3 Days vs. 7 Days
| Time in Siena | Best for | What you can see and experience | What you’ll miss |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 day | Day-trippers and first-time visitors | Piazza del Campo, Siena Cathedral, the historic center and several of the main sights to see in Siena | Evening atmosphere, slower exploration and most museums or specialized tours |
| 3 days | Most leisure travelers | The principal sites to see in Siena, including the Duomo complex, Palazzo Pubblico, Torre del Mangia, historic neighborhoods and time for local dining | Deeper immersion and multiple excursions beyond Siena |
| 7 days | Slow travelers and visitors using Siena as a base | Siena’s major sights plus return visits, quieter streets, neighborhoods, markets, evening life and day trips into Tuscany | Very little, although seven days is more than most visitors need if Siena itself is their only objective |
Is Seven Days in Siena Right for You?
A week in Siena makes sense if you:
- Prefer exploring without rushing
- Enjoy architecture, history, food and photography
- Want to see Siena early in the morning and after day-trippers leave
- Like returning to restaurants and familiar neighborhood places
- Want a central base for parts of Tuscany
- Are comfortable balancing sightseeing days with slower days
You may prefer a shorter stay if you:
- Have limited time and want to visit several Italian cities
- Are primarily interested in Siena’s major landmarks
- Prefer changing destinations frequently
- Require reliably flat or barrier-free routes
- Don’t plan to explore the surrounding Tuscan countryside
Our Seven-Day Siena Itinerary
Day 1 — Arrival and first impressions: Piazza del Campo and our first walk through Siena’s old quarter.
Day 2 — Settling into Siena: Central Siena, Via Banchi di Sopra, Piazza del Campo and local food shopping.
Day 3 — The Duomo complex: Siena Cathedral, Museo dell’Opera and the Facciatone.
Day 4 — San Gimignano and wine country: A day trip to San Gimignano followed by our Tenuta Torciano wine experience.
Day 5 — Porta del Cielo: A return to Siena Cathedral for the rooftop and upper-level Porta del Cielo tour.
Day 6 — Siena from above and below: Torre del Mangia, Palazzo Pubblico and the Orto de’ Pecci gardens.
Day 7 — The Val d’Orcia: San Quirico d’Orcia, Montalcino and a final dinner back in Siena.
| Day 1 – Arriving in Siena, Italy: First Impressions |
Our host met us at the Roman Gate and kindly offered to drive our DS-7 to the apartment—just 50 metres from the Piazza. As we inched through Siena’s narrow medieval lanes, dodging pedestrians and hugging ancient stone walls, it became clear why locals navigate with such practiced precision.
Exploring Siena’s Old Quarter
I love to walk. It’s the best way to discover a new destination. It gets you up close to the sights and the people in their day-to-day surroundings. So, camera and iPhone in hand, I set out to explore the streets of Siena.
Because of its ZTL (Restricted Traffic Zone), the Centro Storico or historic centre is mostly pedestrian with limited local traffic. It’s an incredibly clean city and the air is wonderfully pure as well. Adding to the ambiance, each of the 17 contrade decorate their streets with their colourful flags. This creates a festive atmosphere throughout the year.
On some evenings, proud citizens take to the streets in a procession that winds through Siena, waving flags and beating drums. I read that this happens mainly on Sundays. However, while we were there, we saw or heard at least three processions making their way through the streets.
Why Siena Feels Like a Fortress City
One of our first impressions of Siena was how defensive it felt. The gates, walls, narrow streets and elevated setting aren’t simply atmospheric details. Siena was an independent republic for centuries and a powerful rival of Florence, a rivalry that even influenced the way the city developed.
The fortified wall that still surrounds Siena’s historic centre stretches for about seven kilometres, while the city itself developed across three hills connected by major streets that converge around Piazza del Campo. The Republic of Siena came to an end in 1555. A few years later, Cosimo I de’ Medici ordered the construction of the Fortezza Medicea, which still stands on the western side of the historic centre.
You can still feel that history as you move through Siena. From outside the city, it seems to rise above the surrounding countryside. Once inside, the gates, walls and steep changes in elevation constantly remind you that this wasn’t a city designed around modern convenience.
Walking Through Siena’s Ancient Streets
Cobblestone streets dating back hundreds of years wind through the city, following the topographical profile of the hills on which Siena developed.
If you look at a terrain view of the town map, you’ll notice that the main streets in the old quarter follow the crest of the hill. The side streets drop off on either side.
This feature is shared by many hilltop towns in Tuscany. It’s part of their charm. But it also makes getting around a bit tougher. Sometimes, it feels more like a strenuous workout than a leisurely stroll. Plan your outings accordingly. A good pair of sensible shoes is usually a safe choice. High heels on cobblestone, not so much.
Our experience: Siena’s historic centre is compact, but its steep streets, elevation changes and uneven paving can make it challenging for travellers with limited mobility. Danielle uses a cane, and while we were able to experience most of what we wanted during our seven-day stay, we often adjusted our routes and pace. Individual attractions vary considerably in accessibility.
Happy Mobility Tip
If you have mobility issues, stick to the centre of the old quarter to avoid steep hills. Heading north from Piazza del Campo, take Banchi di Sotto — it’s a gentler incline leading to Via delle Terme and Piazza Indipendenza.
We found Costarella dei Barbieri considerably steeper and more difficult for Danielle with her cane. Travellers using wheelchairs or other mobility devices should verify suitable routes before visiting.
There is some public parking south of the Campo, near the market and stadium, but it’s well below the historic core. A better option is the drop-off point at the top of Banchi di Sopra, where nearby parking and flatter access make entry into the Centro much easier.
Our First Dinner In Siena
Not having made a reservation for dinner on arrival in Siena proved to be a mistake. It was a busy Saturday and the city was teeming with visitors. We ended up in a sort of improvised outdoor restaurant near our apartment. Contrary to popular belief you can find a bad meal in Italy.
Happy Foodie Tip
On busy weekends, book dinner in advance. Our first night showed us that leaving it to chance can mean settling for whatever is available rather than the meal you actually want.
Day 2 – Settling into Siena: Piazza del Campo and Everyday Life
On our second day in Siena, we focused on settling into our apartment and getting to know our surroundings. Instead of trying to cover a long list of attractions, we spent the day walking through central Siena, returning to Piazza del Campo, exploring Via Banchi di Sopra and shopping for local food.
That slower pace let us notice the places that were becoming part of our routine instead of feeling that every hour needed to be devoted to sightseeing.
Getting to Know Piazza del Campo
Piazza del Campo is the main public space in Siena’s historic centre and one of the places we returned to repeatedly during our stay.
The shell-shaped piazza is surrounded by the Palazzo Pubblico, the Torre del Mangia and various palazzi signorili. It is also the site of the Palio di Siena and the finish of the annual Strade Bianche road cycling race.
The piazza was paved in 1349 in a fishbone pattern with red brick and travertine, dividing it into nine sections symbolizing the rule of The Nine who governed Siena.
The Palio of Siena
The Palio is one of Siena’s defining traditions, a horse race contested by the city’s contrade. We weren’t there during the race itself, but the contrada flags and processions we encountered during the week made that neighbourhood identity visible even outside Palio season.
Fonte Gaia Fountain
Gracing Piazza del Campo, opposite the Palazzo Pubblico, is the Fonte Gaia (Joyous Fountain). It was created by Renaissance sculptor Jacopo della Quercia and completed in 1419 on the site of a spring fed by a network of underground tunnels known as the bottini.
The marble sculptures glisten in the sunlight at the heart of Siena’s main square. The version we see today is a 19th-century Carrara marble replica, while the original panels are preserved in the Santa Maria della Scala museum.
Fonte Gaia is rich in symbolism, including wolves representing Siena’s mythical founding by Senio, son of Remus, and panels of the Madonna and Child. The Sienese She-Wolf appears throughout the city and anchors this fountain’s narrative.
Discover the full story of Fonte Gaia and its hidden meanings
A First Look at Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia
Dominating the Campo are the Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia. We admired both from the square that day and chose to return later in the week to explore the Palazzo more closely and climb the tower.
That became something of a pattern during our stay. We could notice a place, come back to it when we were ready and give it the time it deserved instead of trying to fit every major attraction into the same day.
Via Banchi di Sopra, Siena’s bustling and elegant thoroughfare.
Read the full story of Torre del Mangia and Siena’s sky-high view
Via Banchi Di Sopra
Via Banchi di Sopra is the main shopping street in Siena’s old quarter. It starts in the north end of the city at Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, where buses drop off many visitors, and then winds through the historic centre toward Piazza del Campo.
Lined on either side are boutiques and local shops, along with some familiar names in fashion. There are pastry shops and bakeries, restaurants and bars. It became one of the streets we used regularly rather than simply somewhere we passed through once.
One stop that I particularly appreciated was the menswear shop Spada Roma. It’s a small Italian chain, but the store had a local boutique feel. I purchased a couple of scarves that I wore to dinner on a few chilly evenings.
Also be sure to check out Grom Gelateria, which offers a selection of vegan, gluten-free and lactose-free items.
Piazza Salimbeni and Loggia del Papa
At the top of Via Banchi di Sopra, we came across Piazza Salimbeni. The Gothic-style Palazzo Salimbeni is the historic home of Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena, while the statue at the centre of the square depicts Sallustio Bandini, a Sienese priest and early Italian economist. It was sculpted by Tito Sarrocchi in 1882.
Commissioned by Pope Pius II in 1462, La Loggia del Papa is a Renaissance open-air loggia in Siena’s historic core honoring his Piccolomini family. The Piccolomini name comes up repeatedly around Siena, including at the Duomo, and discoveries like this were part of what made walking the city rewarding.
The loggia features Renaissance-style arches and a frieze that reads “Gentilibus suis Picolomineis” (Family of Piccolomini).
Shopping Like a Local at the Consorzio Agrario di Siena
But above all, my favourite discovery that day was the Consorzio Agrario di Siena, the Siena Agricultural Consortium, on Via Pianigiani at the corner of Costa Incrociata.
The shop features a dizzying selection of fresh produce, salumi, bread and baked goods, fresh pasta, olive oil, cheese and, of course, wine. Everything is produced locally by Consorzio members.
Shopping there was one of those small experiences that helped Siena feel less like a sightseeing stop and more like somewhere we were actually staying. With an apartment nearby, buying local food became part of our daily rhythm rather than simply another travel activity.
Dinner at Osteria Da Trombicce
That evening, we had dinner at Osteria Da Trombicce. The menu was inventive and fresh, with dishes including tartare and homemade tagliatelle al ragù, and it gave us another reason to appreciate having enough time in Siena to try different restaurants rather than treating meals as something squeezed between attractions.
Day 3 – Siena Cathedral and the Duomo Complex
By our third day, we were ready to devote most of the day to Siena’s cathedral complex. We explored the Cathedral, Museo dell’Opera and Facciatone that day, then returned later in the week for the Porta del Cielo tour.
Inside Siena Cathedral
Il Duomo di Siena is also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Its black-and-white marble exterior dominates the skyline from several points around Siena, but the interior is even more visually intense.
The first thing that overwhelmed me was the amount of detail. The alternating black-and-white marble continues through the interior, but it was the inlaid floor that kept pulling my attention downward. Biblical scenes, symbols and figures are worked directly into the marble, including Siena’s familiar she-wolf.
We had also booked the Porta del Cielo tour, but rather than trying to do everything in one day, we returned to the Cathedral on Day 5. That was one of the benefits of having a full week in Siena: we could give the Duomo complex more than one visit instead of rushing through it all at once.
These are just a few highlights of our visit. You can read a more detailed account in our full guide to the Duomo di Siena.
Black-and-White Marble and the Inlaid Floor
The Cathedral’s facade rewards a closer look as well, with layers of Gothic stone carving, sculpted figures and decorative detail that are easy to miss when you first approach the building.
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
After the Cathedral, we continued through the Duomo complex to the Museo dell’Opera. The museum preserves works of art and architectural fragments that were originally created for, or once formed part of, the Cathedral.
Among the collection are Gothic sculptures by Giovanni Pisano and his school from the Cathedral facade, Duccio di Boninsegna’s Maestà, and works by Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzetti.
Directly across Piazza del Duomo is Santa Maria della Scala. We didn’t go inside on this trip, so our Day 3 visit remained focused on the Duomo complex itself.
Accessibility at the Duomo Complex
The Opera del Duomo currently states that the Cathedral can be accessed by a dedicated ramp on the left side of the building. The Museo dell’Opera, Crypt and Baptistery are not currently equipped for disabled access. Because access arrangements can change, check the Opera del Duomo’s current accessibility information before your visit if reduced mobility is a concern.
Facciatone
From the Museo dell’Opera, we continued upward to the Facciatone, the massive unfinished façade left from Siena’s ambitious 14th-century plan to expand the Cathedral.
The Facciatone is one of the most dramatic reminders of how ambitious that expansion was intended to be. The wall can be climbed for a panoramic view across Siena and the Tuscan countryside. It’s an exhilarating climb if you’re comfortable with heights, but the stairs and elevated walkways are something travellers with mobility concerns should consider carefully.
Dinner at Pier Pettinaio
Steps away from the Piazza del Campo, Ristorante Pier Pettinaio is located in a small alley of the same name just off one of the main shopping streets. A small terrasse with a half dozen tables sits outside, adding to the ambiance and charm. Due to the unseasonably warm weather for the last week of September, it was packed so we sat at a table inside.
Day 4 – San Gimignano and a Tuscan Wine Experience
By Day 4, we were ready for our first full-day excursion outside Siena. We had originally planned to spend more of the week driving through Tuscany, but we were enjoying Siena so much that we deliberately cut back our time away. San Gimignano, followed by an afternoon at Tenuta Torciano, became one of the two full-day excursions we kept.
We left the car behind and travelled independently: a regional train from Siena to Poggibonsi–San Gimignano, followed by a regional bus up to San Gimignano. With a wine tasting and grape-harvest experience planned for later that afternoon, public transportation made much more sense than driving.
Getting from Siena to San Gimignano by Train and Bus
The train was comfortable, modern and clean, and the signage in the Siena station was easy to follow. Though I love to drive, this was clearly a no-brainer for us that day.
From Poggibonsi, we caught a regional bus for the final leg to San Gimignano. The bus was far less comfortable than the train, but the approach gave us something that is harder to appreciate from inside the walls: the town’s medieval skyline rising above the hilltop.
If you’re planning the same route, check Trenitalia and Autolinee Toscane for current schedules and fares before travelling.
Arriving in San Gimignano
San Gimignano grew as an important stop along the Via Francigena, the medieval pilgrimage route to Rome. Its skyline once contained roughly 72 tower-houses built by wealthy families as displays of power and status; 14 survive today, helping make its historic centre a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We entered through Porta San Giovanni and slowly followed the old streets uphill toward Piazza della Cisterna. The stone towers are impressive from within the town, but I found San Gimignano even more striking from a distance, when you can see the skyline and fortifications together rather than one building at a time.
Piazza della Cisterna takes its name from the large cistern beneath the square that once served as an important water source. An octagonal travertine well sits at the centre of the triangular piazza, surrounded by the medieval buildings that make San Gimignano feel so immediately different from Siena.
Tenuta Torciano Wine Tasting Experience
Later that afternoon, our driver collected us near Porta San Giovanni for the roughly 20-minute ride through the Tuscan countryside to Tenuta Torciano. Late September put us there during the vendemmia, the grape harvest, and we had booked an experience that went well beyond simply sitting down for a wine tasting.
Harvest Activities in the Vineyard
Danielle headed into the vines with grape shears, and before long we were taking part in the harvest ourselves. We even had the chance to stomp grapes—a much more playful version of a traditional harvest, but certainly one of the more memorable moments of the afternoon.
The experience was clearly designed for visitors, yet being among the vines during harvest season gave us a connection to the agricultural side of Tuscany that we hadn’t experienced while walking the medieval streets of Siena and San Gimignano.
A Tuscan Meal Designed Around the Wines
After the harvest experience, we settled in at a table beside the vines for the wine tasting and meal.
This wasn’t simply lunch served alongside a few glasses of wine. The meal had clearly been designed around the wines, with different pours introduced as the courses arrived so that the food helped bring out different characteristics in the glass.
Among the wines we tasted were Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Brunello di Montalcino and several Tuscan reds from the Torciano portfolio. Seeing the bottles lined up in front of us gave us a sense of how extensive the tasting would be, but the experience became much more interesting once the food began arriving.
The meal began with a generous Tuscan-style antipasto of cured meats, cheeses and accompaniments. Among the courses that followed were spaghetti with fresh tomato and basil, lasagna and a roasted pork tenderloin dish served with potatoes, greens and sauce. Small biscuits arrived toward the end of the meal, while the wine remained part of the experience throughout.
What impressed me most was the way the food and wine worked together. The meal wasn’t an afterthought, and the wine wasn’t simply poured beside whatever happened to be on the plate. Each course gave us another opportunity to experience the wines in a different context.
And the setting certainly helped. We were seated outdoors beside the vines on a warm late-September afternoon, taking our time over the meal with several glasses in front of us. After a morning spent walking among the stone streets and medieval towers of San Gimignano, sitting among the vines felt like a completely different side of Tuscany.
From San Gimignano Back to Siena
The day worked because of that contrast: medieval San Gimignano in the morning, grape harvesting, food and wine in the afternoon, then back to our apartment in Siena, a city that had already begun to feel familiar.
And that was enough travelling for a while. The next morning, we were back in Siena—and back at the Duomo for an experience we had deliberately saved rather than squeezing into our first cathedral day.
Day 5 – Porta del Cielo: Siena Cathedral from Above
Returning to the Duomo on Day 5 was exactly the kind of thing a full week in Siena allowed us to do. We had already explored the Cathedral, Museo dell’Opera and Facciatone two days earlier, but instead of squeezing another experience into that visit, we had pre-booked the Porta del Cielo tour and came back for it on its own.
What Is the Porta del Cielo Tour?
The Porta del Cielo, or “Gate of Heaven,” is a route through the upper parts and rooftops of Siena Cathedral. It takes visitors above the vaulted ceiling and into areas of the building that aren’t part of a standard Cathedral visit, with elevated views both inside the church and across Siena. You can check current details and booking information on the official Opera del Duomo website.
Around 11 a.m., I returned solo to the Cathedral and met our small group of about a dozen visitors. From there, a narrow staircase took us upward into parts of the building we hadn’t seen on our first visit.
I found the climb manageable, but the route includes narrow stairs and elevated interior passages. The Opera del Duomo’s published accessibility information confirms ramp access to the Cathedral itself, but it doesn’t specifically describe accessibility for the Porta del Cielo route. If reduced mobility is a concern, check directly with the Opera del Duomo before booking.
Exploring the Cathedral from Above
The route took us above the Cathedral’s vaulted ceilings and through upper spaces that are invisible from the nave below. We could see parts of the structure and construction details from an entirely different perspective, then step outside for elevated views across Siena. San Domenico and the Facciatone were easy to pick out, with the Tuscan countryside extending beyond the city.
Looking Down Into Siena Cathedral
For me, the highlight was looking down into the Cathedral itself. Two days earlier, I had been standing on the marble floor examining its intricate inlays at eye level. Now we were looking down on those same patterns from above, with the nave, vaulted ceilings and stained glass all visible from an entirely different perspective.
That change in viewpoint made the return visit feel completely different from Day 3 rather than repetitive. It was also another reason I was glad we hadn’t tried to fit the entire Duomo complex into a single day.
For more photographs and details, see our full guide to the Duomo di Siena.
Dinner at Osteria le Logge
That evening, we stayed close to home for one of the most memorable meals of our week. Osteria Le Logge was only steps from our apartment, on Via del Porrione near the Loggia del Papa, and we had booked its seven-course tasting experience with wine pairings.
We ate outside on a beautiful late-September evening, beginning with Prosecco before a succession of dishes that included baccalà, pappa al pomodoro, beef tongue, spaghetti with mussels, tagliatelle al ragù, rabbit and a hazelnut dessert.
What stayed with me most was the attention to detail: each course was carefully presented, but the meal never felt like presentation for presentation’s sake. The flavours were every bit as memorable as the plating.
Osteria Le Logge became another example of what staying longer in Siena gave us: enough time not only to find restaurants we loved, but sometimes to want to go back.
Day 6 – Siena from Above and Below
Climbing the Torre del Mangia
By Day 6, I had spent several days looking up at the Torre del Mangia from Piazza del Campo. I had deliberately saved the climb for later in the week, so by then I was ready to see the city from above.
From street level, Siena can feel enclosed by stone walls, narrow streets and tall buildings. From the top of the Torre del Mangia, the city suddenly makes sense.
Built between 1325 and 1348, the tower rises about 87 metres above Piazza del Campo. Its name comes from Giovanni di Balduccio, its first bell ringer, who was nicknamed “Mangiaguadagni,” or “Mangia,” for his reputation for spending his earnings on food. Perhaps Siena’s original foodie?
The climb is roughly 400 steps through increasingly narrow passages before reaching the upper level of the tower. The worn stone stairs and tight spaces are part of the experience, but this is a strenuous climb rather than a casual viewpoint.
Planning note: Access to the Torre del Mangia is timed and capacity is limited. Check the official Museo Civico visitor information for current ticketing, opening hours and access conditions before your visit.
From above, the Siena we had been walking for nearly a week suddenly became much easier to understand. The Duomo and Basilica of San Domenico stood out among the terracotta rooftops, the fortifications traced the edge of the historic centre, and the streets curved away through the hills below.
What surprised me most was how much green surrounded all that stone. Looking down beyond the Campo, I could see gardens and open spaces tucked into the valleys between Siena’s built-up ridges. One of them caught my attention enough that, once I came back down, I went looking for it.
Mobility at Torre del Mangia and Museo Civico
The Torre del Mangia and Museo Civico are very different from a mobility standpoint. The tower has no elevator and requires a climb of roughly 400 steps. Siena’s official visitor information says the tower is not accessible to visitors with motor disabilities and advises visitors with mobility difficulties to avoid the climb.
The Museo Civico is considerably more accommodating. Its principal visitor route is level, and an elevator is available for visitors with motor disabilities or walking difficulties. Wheelchairs may also be available, subject to availability. Check the official Museo Civico accessibility information before visiting, since access conditions can change.
Palazzo Pubblico and Museo Civico
Back at ground level, the Palazzo Pubblico provided a very different view of Siena—not from above, but through the way the medieval Republic understood itself. Built as the political centre of the Sienese Republic, the palace still anchors Piazza del Campo beneath the Torre del Mangia.
Inside, the Museo Civico occupies rooms that once served Siena’s governing institutions. In the Sala del Mappamondo, Simone Martini’s Maestà presents the Virgin Mary in regal glory. In the Sala dei Nove, Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s Allegory of Good and Bad Government turns civic values and political ideas into an extraordinary visual narrative.
Explore the full story of the Palazzo Pubblico and its artistic treasures
Relaxing in Siena’s Orto de’ Pecci Gardens
After descending from the Torre del Mangia, I went looking for the green space I had noticed from above: the Orto de’ Pecci.
Siena’s old quarter can feel like one continuous mass of cobblestone streets, piazzas, alleys and stone facades. Orto de’ Pecci offers a striking contrast. Only a few hundred metres from Piazza del Campo, it sits lower in the valley and is reached by descending toward Via Porta Giustizia. As we had already learned in Siena, however, a short distance on the map does not necessarily mean an effortless walk.
The route has its own history. According to Terre di Siena, condemned prisoners once passed through this area on their way from Porta Giustizia to executions. Much later, the land became part of Siena’s psychiatric hospital, where patients cultivated fruit and vegetables and cared for farm animals. Today the gardens include cultivated areas, an organic garden and a reconstruction of a medieval garden.
I was struck by the olive trees, open space and the sense of quiet so close to the centre. After several days surrounded by Siena’s medieval streets and buildings, it was a breath of fresh air and a completely different vantage point from which to admire the fortified city.
For current information about the gardens, see the official Terre di Siena listing for Orto de’ Pecci.
Day 7 – Val d’Orcia: San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino
On our final full day in Siena, we took our leased car for our second major excursion of the week. This time we headed south into the Val d’Orcia, with San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino as our main destinations.
We had deliberately kept our time on the road limited during the week, but this was exactly the kind of day for which having Siena as a base worked well: countryside and hill towns during the day, then back to a familiar apartment and a final dinner in the city that evening.
In Search of an Iconic Tuscan View
Like many visitors to the Val d’Orcia, we set off in search of one of those picture-perfect cypress-lined roads and villas that seem to define Tuscany in photographs. Relying on Google, we soon found ourselves on a bumpy dirt road winding through fields and vineyards.
Eventually, the road was blocked by cables, concrete blocks and a rather large bulldozer. We clearly weren’t the first travellers to go looking for the same view. On the way back, we crossed paths with several others who appeared to be on exactly the same mission.
We never reached the photograph we had imagined, but the detour itself became part of the day. Sometimes the search for the iconic view is less interesting than the landscape you discover while trying to find it.
San Quirico d’Orcia
Slightly disappointed but still thrilled with the drive through the Val d’Orcia, we made our way into San Quirico d’Orcia. Compared with Siena, it felt smaller and quieter almost immediately. We wandered the historic streets past the Collegiata, small shops, cafés and stone buildings at a much slower pace than we might have on a shorter trip.
Parking was available outside the historic centre, leaving us with a short walk into town. As elsewhere in Tuscany, it is worth paying attention to opening hours because some shops and restaurants close for part of the afternoon.
The Horti Leonini Gardens
The highlight of San Quirico for us was the Horti Leonini, a formal Renaissance garden created around 1580. Its geometric hedges, symmetrical paths and terraces create a very different atmosphere from the surrounding medieval streets.
What surprised us was the contrast between the formal garden design and the contemporary sculptures placed throughout the grounds. We were there in late September, during Forme nel Verde, an annual exhibition that brings contemporary sculpture into Horti Leonini and other spaces around San Quirico.
The garden’s central lane leads to stairs connecting the lower formal garden with a wooded upper area. Those stairs were steep and uneven. Danielle stayed below while I continued into the upper section, where mature holm oaks surround a grassy clearing.
Lunch in San Quirico d’Orcia
Leaving Horti Leonini behind, we found a garden terrace at the back of a wine shop and settled in for bruschetta, salumi and local cheeses. We paired lunch with a glass of Vernaccia, a refreshing white wine we had come to enjoy during the trip.
Inside, the shop held an impressive selection of Tuscan wines, including Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino, Super Tuscans and Chianti. It was the kind of unhurried lunch that fit the day perfectly.
For more detail on the town, see our San Quirico d’Orcia Travel Guide.
From San Quirico, we continued about 14 km west to another hill town: Montalcino
Montalcino – Land of Brunello and Panoramic Views
The drive from San Quirico to Montalcino was one of the most beautiful stretches of the day, winding through the rolling landscapes of the Val d’Orcia with vineyards and open countryside on either side.
Perched high above the surrounding countryside, Montalcino is inseparable from the wine that bears its name. Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is produced within the municipality of Montalcino from Sangiovese grapes, and wine shops and enotecas are woven into the fabric of the old town.
We were eager to explore that wine culture, but we also appreciated that parts of Montalcino’s historic centre felt more level than some of the steep streets we had encountered elsewhere that day. That was our experience rather than a claim that the town is consistently accessible, but after several days of hills and cobblestones, the difference was noticeable.
My wife and I have a strict “one-church-per-day” rule, so we didn’t attempt to work our way through Montalcino’s many churches. We did spend some time outside the cathedral, which was closed at that time of day, then continued wandering the streets and taking in the views before heading back toward Siena.
For more photographs, wine context and mobility observations, see our Montalcino Travel Guide.
Our Last Dinner in Siena
That evening we returned to Pier Pettinaio for our final dinner in Siena. Returning to a restaurant we already knew felt appropriate after a week in which so many places had started to become familiar.
This time we ordered one of Tuscany’s iconic dishes: Bistecca Fiorentina. The steak was nearly three fingers thick and weighed about 1.3 kilos. It was presented to us raw at the table before being taken back to the kitchen for cooking. For our final evening in Siena, we paired it with a Brunello—a fitting way to end the week.
It was an indulgent way to end the week—and fitting that our final night wasn’t spent searching for somewhere new, but returning to somewhere we already wanted to revisit.
Read about our dinner at Pier Pettinaio
Departure Morning – Leaving Siena for Florence
On Saturday morning, we had one last caffè e brioche at the pastry shop on Piazza del Campo that had become my favourite during the week.
It was a small ritual, but that was precisely what made leaving Siena feel different from leaving some of the other places on our Italian road trip. After seven days, we had favourite restaurants, familiar streets, a grocery shop we knew and routes through the historic centre that had become part of our routine.
Then we packed the car and headed north toward Florence, leaving behind what remains our favourite destination in Italy.
Is Siena Worth Staying in for a Week? Our Verdict
Yes—for the right kind of traveler.
Two or three days may be enough to see Siena’s principal landmarks. Seven days gave us something different: time to experience the city without organizing every day around what we still needed to see.
We could return to the Duomo rather than trying to fit the entire complex into one visit. We shopped for food near our apartment, went back to restaurants we liked, saw Piazza del Campo at different times of day and gradually learned which streets made getting around easier for Danielle.
We also discovered that Siena works well as a base for carefully chosen excursions into Tuscany. San Gimignano and Tenuta Torciano gave us one very different day; San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino gave us another. But we deliberately avoided turning the entire week into a series of day trips because we enjoyed being in Siena itself.
A week won’t suit everyone. Travellers trying to cover several major Italian cities in a short trip may be happier with two or three nights. And Siena requires careful planning for anyone with reduced mobility: the hills, cobblestones, uneven surfaces and steep side streets are genuine obstacles.
But if you enjoy slow travel, history, food, photography and the simple pleasure of returning to places that have begun to feel familiar, Siena rewards the extra time.
By the time we left for Florence, Siena no longer felt like somewhere we had simply visited. For a brief time, it had become part of our routine. That is what we remember most about our seven days there.
Frequently Asked Questions about Siena, Italy
Yes. Siena combines an exceptionally well-preserved historic centre with major landmarks such as Piazza del Campo and the Duomo, but what made it especially rewarding for us was the experience beyond the landmarks. Spending a full week gave us time to explore slowly, return to favourite places and experience the city outside the busiest day-trip hours.
Two or three days may be enough to visit Siena’s principal landmarks, but staying longer changes the nature of the experience. During our seven-day stay, we explored without rushing, returned to places we enjoyed, shopped locally, experienced the historic centre at different times of day and still had time for two carefully chosen excursions into Tuscany.
Yes, particularly if you want to combine time in Siena itself with selected excursions into the surrounding region. From Siena, we travelled by train to Poggibonsi and then by bus to San Gimignano, before continuing by private transfer to Tenuta Torciano. For our separate Val d’Orcia excursion, we drove our leased car to visit San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino.
What worked well for us was not using Siena merely as somewhere to sleep between day trips. We deliberately limited our excursions because we enjoyed spending time in the city itself.
Siena can be challenging for travellers with reduced mobility. Danielle walks with a cane, and we encountered steep streets, cobblestones, uneven surfaces and significant changes in elevation throughout the historic centre.
Staying near Siena’s central ridge made a considerable difference for us because many of the main streets there were easier to navigate than the steep side streets dropping away from the centre. But our experience shouldn’t be interpreted to mean that Siena is consistently accessible or barrier-free. Accommodation location, drop-off arrangements, attraction accessibility and route planning all deserve careful attention before a visit.