L’une des destinations incontournables pour nous était une croisière en Alaska. Ma femme Danielle et moi rêvons d’une croisière en Alaska depuis un certain temps déjà. Malheureusement, la pandémie a fait obstacle. Mais finalement, cette année, nous avons décidé qu’il était temps de recommencer à voyager pendant que nous en étions encore capables.
L’un de nos éléments de liste de voyage de longue date était une croisière en Alaska. Ma femme Danielle et moi rêvons d’une croisière en Alaska depuis un certain temps. Malheureusement, la pandémie a fait obstacle. Mais finalement, cette année, nous avons décidé qu’il était temps de recommencer à voyager pendant que nous en étions encore capables.
Nous avons également décidé de partager cette expérience unique avec nos meilleurs amis. Deux couples avec qui nous traînons depuis le secondaire : Guy & Lucie et Daniel & Nancy. Vous les verrez à différents moments dans notre galerie d’images et nos photos de vacances. Voyager avec des amis n’est pas sans défis. Mais avec une bonne communication et un esprit ouvert, cela peut être une expérience très enrichissante. Besides Daniel is an excellent and well-equipped photographer. That meant that each situation, each location, always had a second pair of eyes to capture it from different angles and viewpoints.
Planifier une croisière en Alaska
Between the decision to go and the departure date, it took about 2 months to get our act together. For our July 1st(Canada Day) departure, that meant starting our research in early April. We searched online for the best deals, dates and itineraries. The number of choices can be quite dizzying. Plus finding ten days of availability in 6 people’s busy calendars was also a challenge. When traveling as a group flexibility is key.
We also had to consider the availability of contiguous staterooms. This isn’t necessarily a requirement. But it made the trip a whole lot nicer. We were able to unlock the partitions between balconies, so we could all watch the scenery together.
Lastly, we wanted to ensure that quality medical care was available on the ship in case of complications. Danielle had been undergoing radiation therap, up until three weeks prior to departur. Heureusement, rien ne s’est produit
Choisir une compagnie de croisière
We did quite a bit of comparison shopping online. There are offerings for every taste and budget. In the end, we decided that Princess cruises offered the best value compared to other choices. We’ve sailed with Princess before – a total of six times so far – and have always found it a great choice. In addition, we had sailed on the Grand Princess before on our cruise to Hawaii. In our experience the crew is friendly and attentive, the ships are luxurious, clean, well-equipped and well-maintained. Princess is considered a premium cruise line and it shows.
So many possibilities and options to consider! Rather than book directly online, we decided to enlist the help of a Princess Cruise Vacation Planner. Dawn Parton s’est révélée être une ressource très utile tout au long du processus. Helping to find the right staterooms, preparing a quote, and helping us with tours, transportation and more. Before committing, she prepared a quote with a courtesy hold. That gave us enough time to get the green light from our friends before booking.
Faire ses valises pour une croisière en Alaska
The weather along the Inside Passage is constantly changing and you will need to pack for a variety of conditions. This is because temperatures generally drop as you head north. Leaving Vancouver in mid-summer, you can encounter very warm weather. Have a lighter choice for departure day. Later in the cruise, things start to get decidedly chillier as we reached Prince William Sound, especially as the weather turned foggy and rainy.
For detailed recommendations, check out this post on What to pack for an Alaska cruise vacation.
Croisière en Alaska et météo
We all know that the weather is unpredictable from day to day. So, it’s no surprize that long-range forecasts are extremely unreliable. When planning more than a month ahead, daily long-range forecasts on weather sites are iffy. They give you historic averages but nothing you can rely on. And with climate change, extreme conditions and disrupted weather patterns, historical data is, in my opinion, virtually meaningless.
However, within 10 days of our departure date, we were able to get a better sense of the overall trend. This is helpful in planning what to pack. In the weeks before our departure, the forecasts were for cold, overcast, and rainy weather. Nothing led us to believe that we would enjoy a record 10 straight days of sun and warm temperatures.
Suivre les prévisions météo pour l’Alaska
To keep everyone in our travel party up to date on potential weather scenarios, I set up an Excel spreadsheet. In it, I added the links to the online weather forecast for each stop for the date of our arrival. I made it a shared document and linked it to our travel group. A simple click would take us to the forecast for the arrival date at each location. This was particularly helpful in the seven days prior to sailing helping us fine tune our packing requirements.
Remember that the weather on shore and at sea can be vastly different in terms of temperature and humidity. Ocean temperature will have an impact on how chilly things will get. The temperature aboard ship is greatly influenced by surface water temperature. Check out this map by the National Weather Service that show ocean surface temperature around Alaska. Selon CNN, la température de l’eau était de 5 degrés plus chaude que prévu au moment de la navigation.
Se rendre à Vancouver, notre ville de départ de la croisière en Alaska
Cruise Pro Tip: Air travel is generally as unpredictable as the weather. Avoid unnecessary stress by flying in the day before your sailing. Also, pick the first flight out so you have a Plan B should something go wrong.
On our way from Montreal to Vancouver, we got lucky. The first flight left almost on time, but the next flight out was cancelled. As a result, our flight became overbooked, and ten passengers had to be moved to a later flight. Bad weather and a shortage of pilots seem to be the most frequent causes for flight cancellations in summer.
Un soulagement supplémentaire du stress pour nous est de rester à l’hôtel de l’aéroport la nuit avant notre vol. A few extra hours of sleep are well worth the extra cost. The airport hotel in Montreal also offers an indoor parking package. So your vehicle runs less risk of theft or a break in than in the unsupervised exterior lots.
Croisière en Alaska Jour 1 – Départ de Vancouver
It was July 1st, Canada Day so the city was in a festive mood. Canada Place, where the cruise port is located, was also the scene of the festivities. People dressed up in red and white attire bearing the maple leaf. This of course led to many road closures and traffic snarls along the way. Again, always best to get there early to avoid needless stress.
Le Terminus portuaire de Canada Place est une installation spacieuse et moderne. There is a disembarkation area where your taxi or Uber can drop you off. Also, an agent is posted every 25 feet or so along your way to the registration desk. So there’s no way to get lost. Everyone was courteous and helpful.
Ne perdez pas de vue vos valises.
There was a minor incident with our luggage. The baggage handlers and dock workers were having a labour dispute at the time. This delayed our departure and caused a bit of anxiety.
Fortunately, we took the precaution of adding AirTags to our luggage. As a result, we could tell exactly where they were located on the dock. We could even spot the baggage container from our balcony. Once the tags showed the suitcases were on board ship, we could relax and enjoy the cruise.
Upon arrival we were greeted by Lorena our Cabin Stewart. A bright and pleasant woman who did a wonderful job of keeping our stateroom clean and in order. It was always well supplied with water and all the usual necessities. She was always cheerful, greeting us by name. More than once she came rushing to open our stateroom door when we had our hands full.
Conseil de Pro:
It’s always advisable to include medication, a change of clothing and other essentials in your carry-on bag. Bring it with you aboard ship rather than leave it with the baggage handlers. It’s a minor inconvenience to lug it around. But can be a life saver if something happens to your bags as almost happened to us.
Once we were underway, the view leaving Vancouver was spectacular. Particularly from the upper decks at the stern of the ship. It’s a great location to shoot video of the city as it slips away. Vous croiserez Stanley Park et passerez sous le pont Lion’s Gate. Il y a beaucoup à voir de chaque côté du navire pendant que vous naviguez dans de détroit de Géorgie en en quittant l’île de Vancouver.
Since it was Canada Day, we were treated to a fireworks display hosted by the city of Campbell River BC. This spectacular display of red and white pyrotechnics lasted for over a half hour. It culminated in an impressive crescendo just as the ship passed by. Ce spectacle était apparemment accompagné de musique des premières nations, que nous pouvions entendre faiblement depuis le navire. Voir le spectable pyrotechnique depuis le navire offrait un point de vue unique et une expérience impressionnante.
Croisière en Alaska Jour 2 – À la découverte du Passage Intérieur
Sea days — days when the ship does not stop at port — are ideal for relaxing onboard. This extra time to unwind was great for adjusting to the pace to life on a cruiseship. Indulge in a late breakfast at the Horizon court. Or better yet, order breakfast in bed by taking advantage of room service. If you have a Premier Package, it’s included except for the gratuity.
As the ship makes way through the Inside Passage between Port Hardy and Prince Rupert. At speeds of up to 20 knots, it can get breezy on deck. But it’s was easy to find a spot out of the wind where you can still take advantage of the bright sunshine.
Se détendre avec style
One lesser-known feature on most Princess Ships is The Sanctuary. An adults-only area at the front of the ship offering a magnificent 180-degree view of the ship’s progress with very cushy loungers, plush towels and attentive service. There is a moderate cost per guest, but it’s worth a try at least once. Some like it so much that they choose the full-cruise experience. This give you the same private lounger assigned for the duration of the cruise.
La vue
This leg of the itinerary offers views of the costal islands on both sides of the ship. But online maps can be deceiving. We expected to be cruising close to these islands, but, they’re actually quite a distance away.
Soirée de gala à bord
This was the first Gala evening of our Alaska cruise, with our shipmates dressing up for the occasion. We were assigned table 178 in the Da Vinci dining room on deck 6, mid-ship. It’s a grand banquet hall with dozens of attentive staff ready to answer our every request.
We had the pleasure of being served by a wonderful team of wait staff. It was composed of Jover our head waiter, John our waiter and Mafaldo who had the most important job – serving us drinks. What an amazing team!
We had selected the Premier Package that included cocktails and wine by the glass. The selection is a little limited but the quality was excellent. We were particularly impressed by the sparkling wine aka champagne and made it a tradition of beginning each dinner with a glass. So, we certainly kept Mafaldo busy.
Voyager avec des allergies alimentaires ou des intolérances
Since I’m gluten intolerant, food safety is very important to me. The dining room team went the extra mile in making sure everything was perfect. I love how they bring you the menu for the next day and prepare your selection to order. Same deal for my friend Guy who is allergic to shellfish (except scallops for some reason). Again everyone took care to ensure there was no cross-contamination. Excellent Job!
Conseil de Pro:
A cruise offers many opportunities to gain a few extra pounds. And if you want to avoid gaining weight, or want to maintain healthy blood sugar level, it’s important to stay active.
Most ships including the Grand Princess have a well-equipped gym with the latest fitness equipment and free weights. Don’t forget to take advantage of the Promenade deck exterior walkway that doubles as a jogging/walking track. Get in your laps and breath in the pure ocean air.
Croisière en Alaska Jour 3 – Notre premier port d’escale – Ketchican, AK
On day three of our Alaska cruise, we awoke to an early sunrise in our first port of call: Ketchikan, AK, the « Salmon Capital of the World ». According to the Ketchikan Visitors Bureau website, “Ketchikan is best known for three things: feisty salmon, idyllic scenery, and an incredibly rich Alaska Native culture.” Et nous avons eu l’occasion de voir les trois de première main.
From our portside stateroom balcony, we awoke to a quaint fishing cove populated with all manner of vessels both still sleeping and already hard at work. We had a full day ahead of us so the first stop was to the Horizon Court for a big hardy breakfast.
Petit-déjeuner à bord – le Horizon Court
The breakfast buffet is quite impressive with a range of choices for everyone. There are eggs of any style and an omelette station that prepared a host of ingredients to order. Cheese, cold cuts, fresh fruit, Asian specialties, every imaginable form of baked goods and several hot dishes, home fries, bacon, ham and more. The smoked salmon is to die for.
Of particular interest to me was the dedicated gluten-free toast station with a clean toaster. Make sure you ask the attendant to pass your slices through at least twice though or you’ll simply get warm gluten-free bread.
En quittant le navire, nous avons été accueillis par les boutiques de souvenirs et les vendeurs de diamants nécessaires, typiques de tous les ports de croisière du monde.
À voir à Ketchikan
A short walk brought us to a village bustling with activity as tour operators vied for the attention of disembarked passengers. They all seem to offer the same main attractions: a visit to a park home to the local salmon hatchery, a visit of the falls and the largest collection of totem poles in Alaska and perhaps the world.
Louer un bus touristique
We landed on a private tour in a recent and comfortable shuttle bus offering us full control of what we wanted to see over the course of three exciting hours. Chris, our tour guide, in his booming voice narrated our itinerary with interesting anecdotes, fun facts and loads of statistics on Ketchikan, its history, culture and economy.
Observation des aigles à Herring Cove
After spending a few minutes visiting a park created by the children of Ketchikan, we moved on to the main attraction: Herring Cove and the Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary. We learned that the region is home to the largest temperate rain forest on earth – the Tongass National Forest.
What’s cool about this very popular location is the abundance of salmon, which swim up the Cove to spawn. Apparently, after a lifespan of some 5 year, Salmon return to the exact spot where they were hatched to repeat the cycle of life and then die. These dead salmon in turn attract a large number of black bears and their offspring who feast on the salmon. Surprisingly, the bears are picky eaters, and only consumer the skin, head and eggs, the fattiest part of the fish.
The discarded salmon carcasses in turn attract the bald eagle in droves. We had the good fortune of witnessing over a dozen adults and their young, who were learning how to hunt and react to the presence of humans and bears. Fascinating!
Saxman Totem Park
Après des centaines de photos prises, nous avons remonté dans le bus et nous sommes dirigés vers le Saxman Totem Park, considéré comme la plus grande collection de totems au monde. Certaines de ces sculptures d’un mètre de haut étaient belles, d’autres étaient moins spectaculaires et en mauvais état. Il y avait ce qui semblait être un cours de sculpture en cours dans l’un des bâtiments principaux et une agréable odeur de cèdre rouge flottait dans l’air.
Bien sûr, il y avait une boutique de cadeaux remplie d’art des premières nations, dont certains étaient exquis mais chers, tandis que d’autres articles étaient plus abordables mais parfois kitsch – comme un torchon à vaisselle au motif indigène (nous en avons acheté quelques-uns à emporter à la maison… lol).
Promenade historique de la rue Creek Street
Last stop was Creek Street and a tour of the old-time buildings built by the first settlers (or were they replicas, not sure). A group of those were part of the “red-light district” which could be reached by Married Man’s trail, named for the patrons who snuck in back way to Miss Kitty’s place, Ketchikan’s first Madam.
Walking along the boardwalk, we saw a couple of harbor seals (quite large in fact) as well as several salmon making their way to the spawning grounds. We meant to stop at the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show but ran out of steam and time. It was off to the ship for an evening of dining and entertainment!
Alaska Cruise Day 4 – Juneau, AK
The next day, the 4th of July, our Alaska cruise brought us to Juneau, AK with a shore excursion to the Mendenhall Glacier in the plans. We took the morning off and took the mid-day departure to the glacier located about 30 minutes from the port.
Our drive and tour guide nicknamed “Bobcat” did a great job of narrating the drive, pointing out various oddities along the way including Alaska’s first fast-food restaurant. Bobcat tire probablement son nom de son rire très particulier qui, à certains égards, ressemble au comique de stand-up Bobcat Goldthwait. Ça en dit long n’est-ce pas?
Mendenhall Glacier National Park
Starting at the visitor’s centre, a series of trails take you to a main viewing area called Photo Point Trail (about a 20-minute walk there and back) and the second takes you closer to the glacier – though with a partially obstructed view – and Nugget Falls (roughly a 1-hour return trip). Both are an easy walk so hiking boots are not required.
Il y a beaucoup de flore le long du chemin, y compris diverses fleurs sauvages indigènes, et quelques semaines toxiques, y compris le Devils’ Club avec ses tiges douloureusement épineuses.
Mendenhall glacier is a tidewater glacier made up of a 13-mile river of ice which terminates at Mendenhall Lake. It was our first in-person glimpse of a glacier. We were impressed by its characteristic intense blue color mixed with dirt and glacial sediment. This is because the highly dense ice absorbs light from the red end of the spectrum, while reflecting blue light. It’s sort of unreal how it seems to glow.
You’ll also note the grayish green color of the water in Mendenhall Lake. This is caused by the fine dust created as the glacier grinds the rock into a fine, flour-like dust. This dust is a major source of nutrients for the surrounding ecosystem.
Conseil de Pro:
This first port of call is a great location to immortalize your vacation with a good Digital SLR. Keep in mind that the glacier is quite a distance away from the viewing areas. A regular 58 mm lens is fine for establishing shots. A recent iPhone has decent telephoto capabilities, but image quality at a great distance can be challenging.
To capture the beauty of the Mendenhall glacier up close, you’ll need a long telephoto lens – I brought my 75-300mm zoom. My friend Daniel had a super-long 150-600mm lens. If you bring a drone, you’ll have to leave it with security when boarding the ship. Also pay attention to any restrictions on where you can use one.
Parade du 4 juilllet
Back in Juneau, we had the distinct pleasure to witness the 4th of July parade making its way through town. Vintage automobiles, brightly decorated floats and vehicles, veterans, cheerleaders, and marching bands took the lead. However, it was the Ati-Atekan dressed in ceremonial attire made the parade extra special and underscored the importance of first nations culture in the region.
Croisière en Alaska Jour 5 – Skagway, AK
On the fifth day of our Alaska cruise, we sailed north to Skagway, our last port of call at the end of the Inside Passage. In the previous weeks, there had been a rockslide along the dock where we were birthed and for security reasons, we were brought ashore using a bright orange tender craft.
Débarquement dans une embarcation annexe
The rockslide area had been secured with heavy steel netting, but better to ere on the side of cautions since Alaska is one of the most seismically active areas in the world. As a matter of fact, shortly after our return home, Alaska was shaken by a 7.2 magnitude quake off the Alaska Peninsula. On y reviendra plus tard.
After leaving the tender craft, we took a leisurely stroll into town, which was made of a collection of restored gold-rush-era buildings, some over a hundred years old. These historic structures host everything from saloons to gift shops to art galleries and not to mention five churches and a library. Skagway is home to just over 1,000 permanent residents, but with thousands of tourists walking its streets, it felt like a lot more.
Le chemin de fer White Pass & Yukon Railway
For this port of call, we chose the White Pass Summit tour – the short version which lasts close to 3 hours. There is another 6-hour tour available, which ventures deeper into Canada. As you would expect, the views were spectacular as we ascended to an elevation of 2,888 feet, briefly crossing into British Columbia (no passports required).
Our tour guide host narrated the ascension, sharing stories from the history of railroad, its role in the Klondike gold rush and the many hardships endured by the estimated 100,000 prospectors who came to Alaska in the 1890s. Very few of them found gold and many lost their lives in search of the elusive precious metal. It was the outfitters who sold them the one ton of material each prospector carried with them that struck it rich.
Ensuite, ce fut le retour au navire (via une embarcation tendre) et une autre soirée de gastronomie et de divertissement.
Alaska Cruise Day 6 – Glacier Bay National Park
On day 6 of our Alaska cruise vacation, we entered Glacier National Park for a day of scenic cruising. What that means is that the ship slowly cruises along the coastline of Glacier Bay, providing a great view of the glaciers to both side of the ship so that passengers who observe the sights from their stateroom balcony won’t miss a thing.
Voir les glaciers
One of the highlights of the day was John’s Hopkins Glacier, a 12-mile-long tidewater glacier and one of the few advancing glaciers in the region. Many glaciers in Alaska and elsewhere in the world are currently receding, meaning they diminish day after day under the effects of climate change.
Of course, we were hoping to observe a glacier calving, but none occurred. Calving is when a huge chunk of glacial ice separates from the glacier and comes loudly crashing into the sea. This is often seen as a sign of climate change, but in fact is part of the normal glacial process. After nearly an hour of patient waiting, none occurred, and we continued our way, a little disappointed, but still awestruck by the beauty of the scene.
Throughout the day we leisurely cruised by Gilman, Grand Pacific, Lamphlug, Margerie, Reid, McBride, Muir and Riggs Glacier. Each one is in some way different from the other and each glacier is spectacular to observe. You can read more about each of these glaciers by visiting the National Park Service Website. Vous trouverez de nombreuses informations sur le parc et pourrez télécharger une carte détaillée de Glacier Bay.
Voir plus d’images de Glacier Bay dans notre galerie d’images du passage intérieur de l’Alaska
La faune dans le Parc
But Glacier Bay offers more to see than glaciers. Wildlife is ever-present. In particular, sea otter are plentiful and playful. We were surprised to learn that these marine mammals are quite large, an adult measuring 5 to 6 feet and weighing up to 100 lbs. Sea Otter have the densest fur of any mammal with over a million hairs per square inch and is essential to their survival in the frigid arctic waters.
Day 6 was also a formal night, with portraits being taken in the plaza area. Dinner was Surf and Turf with and the desert, fittingly was Baked Alaska.
Le spectacle était une production R&B éblouissante au Princess Theatre. Great entertainment by the cast of talented signers and dancers. Des costumes hauts en couleurs et une musique rythmée ont fait de ce spectacle un grand succès.
Conseil de pro:
Port or starboard, there isn’t a better side to view. Frequent cruisers tend to favor the starboard side of the ship, presumably because they will get a better view of the sights along the itinerary. And while this may be true for other destinations, for our Alaskan cruise, we found that our portside staterooms offered a magnificent view of the glaciers. The captain made sure that both sides of the ship were able to view the glaciers as we cruised up and down Glacier Bay.
Croisière en Alaska Jour 7 – Prince William Sound
On the last day of our Alaska cruise, the weather stopped cooperating. Overcast and foggy weather met us as we traversed the Gulf of Alaska in the morning. Later in the day, it improved slightly as approached Prince William Sound and College Fjord. Surrounded by the Chugach Mountains, College Fjord contains a total of five tidewater glaciers and five major valley glaciers plus dozens of smaller ones.
Les glaciers de College Fjord
The largest are Harvard and Yale. The glaciers in College Fjord were named after the oldest Eastern universities US by the members of the Harriman expedition that explored the region in 1899. Check out the image of College Fjord from space and interesting details on the Nasa Earth Observatory.
Foggy and cloudy weather isn’t all bad. It makes for some great moody photos in a surreal landscape.
Spectacle de cuisine et visite de la cuisine
At 10 am sharp we made our way to the Princess Theatre for a cooking demonstration by the ship’s Maitre’d and head chef, more comedy routine than actual cooking. But they did provide some delicious recipes to try at home including lamb chops « on the barbie ».
Membres of the kitchen and service staff were on hand to provide a musical number, followed by a tour of the ship’s HUGE kitchens. The galley is an ocean of stainless steel and organized efficiency that produces thousands of meal each day.
Une dégustation de vins improvisé au bar à vin Vines.
Before dinner, we decided to have an impromptu wine tasting at Vines. Vines is a wine bar located on the piazza, Deck 5. They have a selection of fine wines by the glass for every taste and price range. Joy, our bartender/sommelier did a wonderful job helping us organize the tasting from the wine selection available. A wonderful selection of whites, reds and rosés from California, Oregon, France, Italy and Portugal among others. We ordered a few appetizers using the Medallion App and had them delivered to the wine bar. Talk about great service.
Dernier souper à bord
Since this was our last night abords, we splurged on a second dinner at the Crown Grill. The steaks are awesome, cooked to perfection with all the trimmings. The service was excellent under the brilliant supervision of Zoran our maître D’.
Time to pack our bags
In preparation for disembarkation following morning, we needed to pack our bags and have them outside our stateroom by 10 pm. We took advantage of the poor weather to pack in the morning after breakfast while the ship made way from Glacier Bay to Prince William Sound.
There wasn’t much to see because of the clouds and fog. Otherwise, we would have typically waited until the last possible moment to pack. This leg of the cruise takes place in open water in the Gulf of Alaska, so the ride is a bit bumpier than in the Inside Passage. By the seventh day, our sea legs were well established so this was not uncomfortable.
Arrivée à Whittier
The ship docked in Whittier shortly after midnight where it waited patiently until the next morning. All the necessary information about the process, along with some colour-coded luggage tags, had been delivered to our stateroom the previous morning.
Passengers are divided into groups based on their travel arrangements. Since we decided to remain in Anchorage for a couple of additional days, we were in the Silver group and among the last to leave the ship bringing our Alaska cruise aboard the Grand Princess to a close. But there was more to come…
Alaska Cruise Day 8 – College Fjord from Whittier, AK
The ship docks during the night, but passengers only leave the following morning. The disembarkation process is well orchestrated. After a hearty breakfast in the Horizon Court, were made our way with our carry-on bags to the Botticelli dining room on deck 5 to await our turn. After a short wait, we were invited to leave the ship. The process was very efficient and stress free, though we were sad to go.
Pour voir les glaciers de plus près
À neuf heures, presque tout le monde quitte le navire, se dirige vers l’aéroport, vers la partie terrestre de leur croisière ou, comme nous l’avons fait, prend la croisière des 26 glaciers organisée par Phillips Cruises à Whittier, AK.
À quelques pas du navire, la croisière d’une journée à bord du M/V Bravest débute à 12 h 15, ce qui vous laisse amplement le temps d’explorer le port en eau profonde de Whittier et de discuter avec les habitants de leur village et de leur histoire.
Découvrir Whittier
We had plenty of time to explore the town and its bustling marina. Hundreds of fishing vessels are docked there and the traffic of boats coming and going at the launch ramp was constant. We’ve never seen so many boats and pickup trucks in one place!
We had a chance to chat with the locals and lear more about the town. Whittier was originally a US Army base during WWII because of its deep water port which remains free of ice in winter. Contrary to what can be found on Wikipedia, the population does not ALL live in a single building (Begich Towers) although that might have been the case at one time. Now there are two additional housing complexes in which the resident dwell. Still, that’s a lot of concentration for a small town.
À propos de Whittier, AK
Whittier is about 90 minutes from Anchorage, so we were curious as to why cruise liners dock here in Whittier, rather than in Anchorage. The answer came from a local tour guide who explained that it’s because the latter has only 12 feet of water at low tide making the harbor too shallow for cruise liners like the Grand Princess.
By noon it was time to board the M/V Bravest for our 26-glacier cruise. The M/VBravest is a high-speed catamaran, with an average speed of 32 knots. It holds up to 286 passengers on two decks and was formerly a New York commuter ferry that assisted with the evacuation of Manhattan on September 11th. Completely refitted with massive engines, it really moves!
We really had to bundle up for this cruise because of the high speed at which the M/V Bravest travels. 32 knots is roughly 60 kph/37 mph so the wind chill was significant. Windproof outwear and several layers of insulation are required. On Day 8, the weather had substantially improved though overcast. So we had an unobstructed view of the glaciers, with the occasional whip of fog.
Les glaciers Harvard and Yale
They say that timing is everything. When we were in for a treat. As we arrived at Harvard Glacier, we spotted not one but two glacial phenomenon. The first is referred to as Glacial Calving, whereby a huge chunk of ice detaches from the glacier face and fall into the sea. In the video you can see this happening as we watched. Don’t be fooled by the size of the block of ice. It looks small but was actually the size of a house.
Le second, beaucoup moins courant, était un moulin glaciaire, une rivière d’eau boueuse coulant sous le glacier et émergeant à la base du glacier. Ce mélange d’eau de fonte et de limon glaciaire a coloré les eaux environnantes en jaillissant pendant plusieurs minutes avant de se réduire à un filet d’eau. Both the captain and the park ranger were both surprised by this phenomenon which they hadn’t witness before.
La faune de College Fjord
This was by far the most productive day of our Alaska cruise in terms of wildlife sightings. Throughout the day, we spotted humpback whales, sea otters, gulls and terns, harbor seals, black bears, sea lions, and of course… eagles. L’ours noir que nous avons repéré avait traversé le passage d’Esther en direction de l’île qui abrite le parc marin d’État de South Esther Island et une écloserie de saumon. Un groupe de lions de mer bruyants se prélassent au soleil sur la colonie d’Eggs Rock au large de l’île d’Esther. Une jeune baleine à bosse nage juste sous la surface en soufflant de l’eau à plusieurs reprises, mais sans percer.
En route vers Anchorage
At the end of the day, we disembarked the M/V Bravest and made our way to the rental vehicle that was awaiting us in the marina parking lot. It had been dropped of the previous day by Alaska Car Rental. A beautiful brand new white Suburban with room for six and luggage.
Only problem was a pool of what looked like transmission oil on the ground under the vehicle. The harbourmaster who stopped to help offered to arrange transport to Anchorage. And the train to Anchorage was waiting at the station and could take us onboard.
But in the end, no worries, the rental company had another identical vehicle standing by in the lot and within a few minutes, we were underway. What’s particular about Whittier is that it can only be reached by vehicle by using the Anton Anderson tunnel, the longest shared rail and vehicle tunnel in the US. It is a single lane tunnel that operate in alternating directions on the hour and half hour.
Jour 9 – Anchorage
Arriving in Anchorage, we were surprised. It was not what we were expecting! Perhaps in a good way. Anchorage is a modern city with a large downtown area and lots of museums and cultural attractions. A far cry from the gold-rush style towns like Ketchikan and Skagway. There is a lot to see and do. Particularly the various museums throughout the city.
We were a little pooped from our cruise and lacked the energy to go exploring. Unfortunately, we missed Potter’s Marsh and its boardwalk, ideal for viewing birds, salmon and the occasional Moose but if we return, it’s on the list.
Driving to the downtown area, we made our way to the Visitor Information Center – a log-cabin-style structure in the heart of Downtown. The staff at the information desk were cheerful and helpful providing a detailed city map and great advice on what to see and do.
Tour de Tramway
These one-hour tours leave on the half-hour from the visitor information center in Downtown Anchorage. You have an option of hop-on/hop-off, or 60-minute tour. Our entertaining tour guide provided detailed commentary on the city and the moments that marked its history including the 1964 earthquake, during which 115 people lost their lives.
The 9.2 magnitude quake is the biggest on record in the US and the second largest in the world after the 9.5 quake that occurred in Chile in 1960. The quake lasted 4.5 minutes during which is collapsed entire neighborhoods and destroyed much of what is now the downtown area. There is a park dedicated to the event. The earthquake’s devastation explains at least in part why downtown is so modern.
We visited various neighborhoods outside of the downtown core. Près de l’aéroport municipal, qui abrite des centaines d’hydravions (un habitant de l’Alaska sur deux possède une licence de pilote), nous avons croisé l’un des 1500 élans d’Anchorage en résidence. It was a yearling, so the mother must have been close by, but did not make an appearance.
Jour 10 – Le chemin du retour
On our final day, we packed our bags and prepared for the voyage back home. Heading to the airport was very short and easy drive. The terminal building is modern, with all the necessary services. Danielle took advantage of the wait to purchase some last-minute souvenirs at a gift shop before boarding the flight.
Terminal d’aéroport moderne avec boutiques et aires de restauration.
La correspondance via YVR Smooth connection and efficient clearance through customs and immigration. Good job CBSA! The new digital kiosks speed things up. We had also used the ArriveCan app to prepare our customs declaration.
We went to the Maple Leaf lounge which seemed recently renovated. La sélection de plats était excellente (poulet au beurre ?), tout comme le vin. The selection featuring some local BC wines of excellent quality. Because we have an AMEX Reserve Card, we have access to the Lounge and can each bring one guest.
Vol de nuit vers Montréal
Cruise Pro Tip: If you book your travel with Princess EZAir, Air Canada will charge you for all your extras in US dollars: Baggage, seat selection and upgrades. Even if you’re a Canadian customer and Aeroplan member. Beware.
We decided to bid on an upgrade to business class so we could get the extra leg room that allowed us to sleep for a few hours before landing in Montreal. The flight was uneventful and we were able to sleep for most the the flight. Although the in-flight movie selection was excellent, we decided to pass. It’s important do get as much sleep as you can to offset the time zone difference (4 hours). Melatonin helps with that.
En arrivant à Montréal, nous avons récupéré nos bagages et notre voiture (garée à l’hôtel de l’aéroport) et sommes rentrés chez nous, la tête et le cœur remplis de souvenirs incroyables de l’un des endroits les plus pittoresques de la planète.
Author’s Note: Writing this blog post, which took close to 2 weeks to prepare, was a great way of extending the journey and reliving and sharing all the magic moments that our Alaska cruise vacation had to offer. I highly recommend it. Danielle and I made a vow to devote more time to travel and exploration. Next stop: Northern Italy and Tuscany in September/October.