A city that blends history, hospitality, and artistic energy
Welcome to our Aguascalientes Travel Guide, about a city that blends rich history, vibrant traditions, and an unexpectedly artistic soul. The City of Aguascalientes was our home base during a memorable spring journey through central Mexico, which also included stops in San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato.
We arrived from Montreal via Mexico City, catching a short 90-minute domestic flight the next morning after an overnight stay at the Hilton inside Mexico City International Airport. A safe and convenient option, especially since it’s not recommended to leave the terminal at night.
This visit was especially meaningful, as we were staying with Alex, our son, guest contributor and local expert. Having a hometown guide made all the difference in uncovering Aguascalientes’ lesser-known gems.
First Impressions That Last
And what timing—we landed during the first week of May, just as the Feria Nacional de San Marcos was in full swing. This extraordinary celebration—the largest fair in Mexico—flooded the city with color, music, and movement. From mariachi bands in the park to big-name concerts and equestrian shows, the energy was infectious. We’ll dive into all of that shortly.
But Aguascalientes offers more than just a festival. It’s a walkable, safe, and culturally rich city filled with unexpected beauty—historic parks, creative cuisine, thermal baths, and hiking trails with panoramic views. It’s also one of Mexico’s safest and most livable cities, with a sense of calm and community that welcomes visitors warmly.
A Fair Like No Other
The Feria Nacional de San Marcos deserves special mention—not just for its size, but for its cultural importance. Held annually since the early 1800s, the fair is one of the regions most popular tourist attractions. It draws millions of visitors for three weeks of parades, food stalls, bullfights, art exhibitions, and performances.
It’s a citywide celebration where locals and tourists alike come together in joyful chaos. We’ll be publishing a dedicated guide soon for those interested in planning a visit around this world-class event.
But Aguascalientes offers more than just a festival. It’s a walkable, safe, and culturally rich city filled with unexpected beauty—historic parks, creative cuisine, thermal baths, and hiking trails with panoramic views. It’s also one of Mexico’s safest and most livable cities, with a sense of calm and community that welcomes visitors warmly.
About Our Aguascalientes Travel Guide
What makes this Aguascalientes travel guide unique? First, it’s based on lived experience—not a two-hour stop on a cruise excursion. We stayed in the Centro, explored on foot, and spent time with locals who showed us the places they love most. We also approach travel through the lens of accessibility, gluten-free dining, and photography—all core themes on The Happy Traveler blog.
Our perspective is personal, sometimes quirky, but always honest. If something impressed us, we’ll tell you why. And if we faced challenges (hello, slippery floors in Cancún), we’ll share that too. Whether you’re planning a short trip or considering Aguascalientes as a snowbird destination, we hope this guide helps you see the city with fresh eyes. This is part of our series of Mexico Travel Guides.
One of Mexico’s Safest and Friendliest Cities
El Gigante de la Seguridad lives up to its name—but stay alert
Aguascalientes is widely recognized as one of the safest cities in Mexico. It proudly promotes itself as “El Gigante de la Seguridad,” or “The Giant of Security.” Police presence is visible, and we always felt at ease exploring the city day or night.
That said, basic precautions still apply. Watch out for pickpockets in crowded areas, especially during major festivals. Avoid driving on rural highways at night, and keep emergency numbers handy. It’s a remarkably safe destination—but like anywhere, it pays to use your head.
Flat and Friendly – A Note on Mobility
A surprisingly accessible city, with a few caveats
We were pleasantly surprised by the city’s walkability. The Centro is mostly flat, and many corners are equipped with downramps marked for wheelchairs. That said, sidewalks can be bumpy, narrow, and sometimes blocked by cars or vendors.
Still, it’s one of the most navigable cities we’ve visited in Mexico. If mobility is a concern, bring a sturdy cane and plan for extra time, especially during busy periods like the Feria.
The Unexpected Expat Scene
A growing international community supported by global business
Thanks to major foreign investment—Nissan, Mercedes-Benz, and others—Aguascalientes has a sizable expat population. Many long-term visitors arrive on work assignments or fall in love with the city’s pace and affordability.
Language schools, expat clubs, and international cafés foster community. You’ll find English spoken in many professional settings, though a little Spanish goes a long way.
Top Things to Do in Aguascalientes
Art, architecture, wellness, and wide-open parks
There’s something wonderfully balanced about Aguascalientes: it’s cultural without being overwhelming, historic without being overly touristic, and walkable without the usual wear and tear. Here are some of the unique experiences and top attractions we recommend based on Alex’s local experience:
1. Admire the Temple of San Antonio
A feast for the eyes and a local icon, the Templo de San Antonio is one of Mexico’s most architecturally unusual churches. Designed by Refugio Reyes, it blends Gothic, Baroque, Neoclassical, and even Russian influences—a whimsical mix that defies categorization. For those interested in Mexican architecture more broadly, the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH) provides excellent resources on the country’s architectural heritage in Mexico.
2. Soak in Baños Termales de Ojocaliente
These century-old thermal baths fed by natural hot springs are a direct link to the city’s name—“hot waters.” With leafy courtyards, colonial stonework, and naturally heated pools, it’s a peaceful, affordable wellness break just a short ride from the city center.
3. Explore Parque Tres Centurias
This former railway yard has been reimagined into a sprawling urban park celebrating Aguascalientes’ industrial heritage. Families come for the green space, locals jog past restored locomotives, and kids flock to the dancing fountain show, one of the largest in Latin America.
4. Visit the Museo Histórico de Aguascalientes
Located in a 1903 mansion, this small but well-curated museum offers a look at the region’s development from colonial times to the 20th century. The sculpture garden, rotating art exhibits, and quiet courtyard make it a peaceful stop.
5. Wander Jardín de San Marcos
Aguascalientes’ most beloved park and a major hub during the Feria, this lush green space is ideal for a morning stroll or an afternoon break in the shade. On ordinary days it’s calm and tranquil—with ornate lampposts, ironwork, and fountains. During the fair, it comes alive with color, sound, and performers.
6. Step into the Museo Nacional de la Muerte ( National Museum of Death)
Only in Mexico will you find a museum dedicated to the cultural, artistic, and historical dimensions of death. This quirky, thoughtful space dives into everything from pre-Hispanic funerary customs to the Day of the Dead, all presented with the reverence and humor that make Mexican culture so unique.
7. Discover Plaza de la Patria and the Historic Center
Compact and walkable, the centro histórico is home to baroque churches, colonial arches, and elegant plazas. Located in the center of Aguascalientes, its highlights include:
- The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption
- The Palacio de Gobierno, with murals that tell the city’s story
- Cozy cafés, local boutiques, and excellent people-watching
8. Hike Cerro del Muerto to El Picacho
Nature lovers can’t miss Cerro del Muerto, a mountain range shaped like a reclining figure. The popular El Picacho trail takes you to the “feet” of the sleeping giant, with panoramic views of the city.
- Best hiked at sunrise or sunset
- Trail time: 25–60 minutes to the summit
- Proper shoes and hydration are a must—especially during the dry season
Eat Like a Local
Tacos, birria, and late-night bites
Don’t miss La Victoria Taquería for juicy carnitas, Birriería El Lago Azul for rich, slow-cooked lamb (known as la bírria) , or Tacos La Gloria—a no-frills favourite among locals said to serve the best tacos in town. Each spot offers a different slice of the city’s culinary scene—flavourful, unpretentious, and deeply satisfying.
Of Crafts and Cafés
Espresso, handicrafts, and the city’s creative side
Aguascalientes has a quietly artistic soul. From handmade leatherwork to contemporary sculpture, the city balances tradition and innovation. Shops and cafés spill into leafy courtyards, offering handcrafted jewelry, embroidery, and ceramics.
Cafés here keep odd hours. Forget the early-morning Starbucks rush—some don’t open until 10, and hours are rarely posted. Most locals prefer espresso or cortados. You can try a cappuccino or latte, but Americano drinkers may feel like outliers.
José Guadalupe Posada and the Spirit of La Catrina
Aguascalientes’ most famous artist and his lasting legacy
You’ll see them everywhere—elegantly dressed skeleton dolls known as La Catrinas. Far from simple trinkets, they originate from a satirical etching by José Guadalupe Posada, Aguascalientes’ most renowned artist and printmaker. Posada used his calaveras—whimsical skeleton figures—to critique the social and political elite, blending humor with commentary. His most famous creation, La Catrina, reminds us that death is the great equalizer.
To dive deeper, visit the Museo José Guadalupe Posada in the city center—a compact but fascinating museum that showcases his life, art, and enduring influence.
Plaza de Toros San Marcos
Aguascalientes and the Last Corrida
Aguascalientes is the last city in Mexico where bullfighting remains legal, upheld as part of the region’s intangible cultural heritage. While banned in much of the country, local courts granted an exemption in 2024, allowing the tradition to continue—especially during the Feria Nacional de San Marcos.
The Plaza de Toros San Marcos, pictured here, hosts the city’s most prestigious corridas. For some, it’s a celebration of heritage; for others, a troubling remnant of the past. Whatever your stance, the tradition remains a defining—if controversial—part of local identity.
Architecture and Sacred Spaces
So many churches—because so many people go
Aguascalientes is filled with historic churches, each with its own story. Locals attend mass faithfully, often daily. One Sunday morning, we witnessed a beautiful wedding at the gold-leaf-gilded Templo de Guadalupe, just steps from Alex’s apartment.
Note: the bells start early—often 5 a.m.—and ring every 15 minutes. Bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.
To explore more about Mexico’s rich architectural traditions, visit the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia.
Where to Stay
Centro for charm, gated communities for snowbirds
We stayed in the Centro, where everything is walkable and authentic. For snowbirds or longer stays, consider one of the many gated communities listed on Airbnb. Many offer monthly rates and have amenities like pools, parking, and security.
If you’re planning around local events, check the Aguascalientes cultural calendar for availability and pricing fluctuations.
Wine in the Heart of Mexico
Aguascalientes ranks among Mexico’s top wine-producing states
The state of Aguascalientes isn’t just beer and tequila country—it’s home to some of Mexico’s most respected wineries.
With a dry climate, high elevation, and mineral-rich soil, the region produces award-winning reds and crisp whites that have taken home prestigious international medals.
Visit the Aguascalientes Wine Route or plan a tasting during harvest season. It’s a growing industry with deep roots in tradition.
Why Aguascalientes Works – A Lifestyle Snapshot
Low-key, high-comfort, and surprisingly livable
What surprised us most about Aguascalientes wasn’t just its cultural depth or iconic fair—it was how easy and comfortable life here can be. Whether you’re planning a short stay or scouting a long-term escape from winter, the city checks many of the boxes that snowbirds and slow travelers look for:
| Feature | Aguascalientes Snapshot |
|---|---|
| Winter Climate | Mild and dry (22–27°C from Dec–Feb) |
| Accessibility | Excellent – flat, walkable core |
| Safety | Very high – “El Gigante de la Seguridad” |
| Healthcare | Modern clinics, English-speaking specialists |
| Culture | Vibrant – arts, architecture, live music |
| Cost of Living | Very low – incredible value for money |
| English Spoken | Limited, but growing in expat circles |
Final Thoughts – Why Visit Aguascalientes?
A city that doesn’t shout—yet leaves a lasting impression
Aguascalientes may not make the front cover of glossy travel magazines or trend on social media—but that’s exactly why it feels so special. It’s a city that welcomes rather than performs, that invites you to slow down, look closer, and discover Mexico beyond the clichés.
We came here expecting a convenient home base. What we found was so much more:
- A world-class cultural fair that turned the city into a kaleidoscope of sound and celebration
- A faith-filled community whose churches form the heartbeat of daily life
- A café scene with quirks, charm, and caffeine to match
- A rich tradition of craft and creativity—including the birthplace of La Catrina herself
- And a walkable, safe, and surprisingly modern lifestyle that snowbirds and slow travelers would be wise not to overlook
In many ways, Aguascalientes is Mexico in microcosm: complex, colorful, humble, and proud. Come for the Feria, stay for the food, hike to El Picacho, or sip your way through the local wine scene. Whether you’re staying a week or a season, you’ll leave with stories that weren’t on your itinerary—but will stay with you far longer than expected.
We hope our Aguascalientes travel guide helps you plan your next trip to central Mexico, and inspires you to explore one of the country’s most overlooked—and most rewarding—destinations.
Map of Aguascalientes
